AKAROA
Nate received his Godspeed and flew back to Auckland catching the red-eye home to St. Louis. Cheryl, Sam, and Tom swung down into the Banks Peninsula, a large inactive volcano extending SE of Christchurch. The trio aimed for an old French whaling village, Akaroa. Hopping abroad another wildlife observation vessel, the Akaroa Harbor was combed for shorebirds, seals, an occasional penguin, and the Hector's dolphin.
Designated as endangered, the dolphin hangs out near Akaroa under environmental observation. The Hector numbers currently stand at about 7400. They die most frequently in gill nets. It would be a mis-statement to suggest the dolphin is fighting for its existence since they are probably oblivious to the fact their existence is coming to an end. They have no control over this inevitability. Their reproductive cycles are too slow to compensate.
Watching the dolphins dance along the vessel dominated the day. A route back into the mountains ended up in a quirky hostel room near another amazing geological region. At Josh DeWitt's recommendation, Castle Rock became a destiny. A late afternoon and evening visit affirmed faith in Josh's opinion.
CASTLE ROCK
'The Witch, the Lion, and the Wardrobe' were filmed at this location. The trio ran around the rocks and could have spent longer imagining themselves to be fictional.
Tom and Cheryl decided that this would be a "just fine" place to own a nice little ranch. The sheep and cattle even appeared content. A serene setting.
OAMARU
The Subaru found its way down the southeastern coastline and stopped in the small city of Oamaru. Another coastal New Zealand town with arts, wildlife, and leisure activities. The march of the little blue penguins is the headline performance every night. Mankind encroached upon the natural habitat, but in Oamaru, biologists preserved and developed a nesting area. The economics of wildlife observation thrives in this region. The little blue penguin gains free boarding and free license to have sex and procreate. So the little blue guys show up every twilight to march up the beach in-groups of 20-40 to nest for the night. Small grandstands filled with human observers witness the event. The penguins take on human persona displaying anxiety, impatience, bravado, concern, desire, agility, and clumsiness. Several stand as guardians on the perimeter. Some wait on the rocks while their mate or buddy eventually arrive onto the darken rocky beach. And the humans are entertained.
Another beach area in the Oamaru area is dedicated to another species of penguin, the yellow-eyed penguin. Like the Hector dolphin, the yellow-eyed penguin approaches extinction. A viewing area from a cliff allowed visualization of the beach with binoculars. 3 of the remaining 4000 yellow-eyed penguins showed up for display. Sam and Tom saw them clearly. Cheryl said, "How do you use these things? I don't see anything!"
Another night in the local hostel allowed a meeting with a young German chap. He slept in the same dorm room with them. A number of Germans were encountered on the trip and also throughout the North Island. One fellow felt that his entire country had left for Australia or New Zealand.
This is not the German chap, but he was sunning on the rocks the little blue penguins were later to climb up to their nests.
MOERAKI
The trio of Sam, Cheryl, and Tom pressed further south along the coast toward Dunedin. The morning stop included the legendary Moeraki Boulders---an area of unusual spherical big rocks on a beach. These made for a photo-opportunity.
Formations like these spring many explanations and legends. The stones have decorated the coastline stimulating imaginations. They seem to await a signal to come alive.
Sam and Tom decided to take one home as a souvenir. A necklace for Cheryl also seemed like a good idea at the time. Once they get it shined up it should be very sparkly.
The purpose of the trip to the Moeraki Boulders was to return Sam back to his birthplace. We had to have the 'birds' talk with him. How he broke out of that shell still amazes his parents. Sam appeared somewhat flabbergasted by the experience. Returning to one's roots remains a deep moment.
Onto breakfast at Fleur's. Known as one of the Renaissance cooks of New Zealand's culinary evolution, Fleur publishes widely throughout the country. Cheryl, having become a student of the recipe science, studied Fleur. She knew her story and could recognize her at 500 paces.
Her establishment sits in a small bay within the loosely defined borders of Moeraki. The restaurant consisted of collections of used parts from previously demolished structures in the area.And there sat Fleur herself. Cheryl was close to being out of control as a Fleur sat gazing out the window thinking about stewing the next creature that entered her shop.
As Fleur was being questioned, and recipes exchanged unilaterally, Tom and Sam scoured the menu. They had been asked to sit outside by the outhouse for failing to exhibit the appropriate response to Fleur. Tom still paid a hefty food bill.
DUNEDIN
The wind blew through Dunedin with a harsh bite considering the mid-summer date. The second largest city on the South Island, Dunedin began with the Scots seeking a religious sanctuary safer than the yellow-eyed penguin have on their shorelines. The Otago Harbor served the purpose and Dunedin grew from a small mining town to a multicultural city specializing in education. The three wanderers explored the city by bus and foot. Buildings displayed the Scottish heritage.
The Speight's Brewery was closely evaluated for flaws. None found.
What can go wrong on a brewery tour? The local stories were entertaining. The Germans found their way visit the place too.
What can go wrong on a brewery tour? The local stories were entertaining. The Germans found their way visit the place too.
The Otago museum was visited and then the Otago Peninsula explored. The hopes of spotting an albatross kept the trained eyes pealed on the coastline. None found.
Dunedin Airport served as the drop site for the well-behaved Subaru.
2000 km of South Island transportation had ended. The group of three climbed
aboard the Jet Star flight home to Thames with bags laden of dirty clothes. Tom searched
for his last pair of clean briefs. None found.
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